Tag Archives: winter

Parmesan-Rosemary Popovers

My grandmother Catherine regularly set out warm batches of popovers on her holiday table, big bombastic puffs of air and eggy dough. As a result, I’ve been powerless to resist their crispy-chewy charms since childhood, trooping to out-of-the-way cafés who’ve … Continue reading

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White Bean and Kale Soup

This is cold weather soup. Rainy day, flat tire, forgot your umbrella, just-want-to-curl-up-under-a-blanket-and-hibernate soup. Packed with earthy kale and creamy white beans in an aromatic broth, it’s warm and nourishing, savory and satisfying. With a flurry of Parmesan, a hunk … Continue reading

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White Bean & Chicken Chili

Cold snaps and football season call for chili, but I find so many recipes too heavy for my taste, even when I’m in the mood for a hearty, warming stew. Swapping out chicken for the traditional brisket or ground beef … Continue reading

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Brandade

Fans of comfort food, of warm-and-creamy appetizers, of dips and spreads and cheeses: you are going to love me for this. Seafood lovers will swoon. Southerners raised on crab dip and mavens of New York deli whitefish salad, meet your … Continue reading

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Parsnip Soup

Parsnips might be one of the more overlooked root vegetables, the C-list has-been of the produce bin. Cultivated by the ancient Greeks and Romans and a staple of Yuletide feasts of yore, they eventually fell out of favor when potatoes … Continue reading

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Peppermint Cocoa

It’s been a busy, bustling holiday season this year, nearly every hour accounted for (many of those hours spent at parties, though, so I’m certainly not complaining) and to-do lists crammed to the hilt with cheerful pursuits: working, gift-shopping, cooking, baking, mailing, … Continue reading

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Brussels Sprouts Slaw

‘Tis the season for holiday travel, when “grabbing a quick bite” turns hazardous: anemic airport sandwiches, shrink-wrapped mid-flight snack boxes, greasy fast food. As if the indignities of modern air travel weren’t enough already, I get the distinct feeling that … Continue reading

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Creamed Winter Greens

Greetings from Chicago, friends! It’s sunny and parchment paper-crisp this morning, real hot cocoa and hat-and-gloves weather. I’m realizing it’s been quite awhile since I’ve been in the cold (not what passes for cold in San Francisco but honest-to-goodness 32 … Continue reading

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Beef Braised in Red Wine

One of the best lessons I took away from culinary school is also one of the most elementary: be prepared. In a professional kitchen it’s called mise en place (“everything in its place”), or the chef’s setup. Getting your mise together … Continue reading

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